This is the fourth page of answers to visitors' questions that we have produced.
We will continue to answer your new questions on this page, so e-mail us below.
Return to Home Page
us your questions now!
Question 59: Date: 23/10/00 19:59:34 GMT Daylight Time From: P
SPELMAN@aol.com To: Snookermag
If I pot a red and the white ball is touching the black, do I have to play away from the black or can I attempt to pot another specified colour?
Answer: Hi, P SPELMAN (It would be nice to have your first name) Thanks for your question, which has already been answered in some detail elsewhere on the Questions pages. However, I will summarise the answer here. If you are touching a colour after potting a red, you may play the colour you are touching. You must not of course move that colour when making your stroke. however, you may also play any other colour if you wish. It is highly recommended that you nominate what colour you are playing in all cases. If you do not, and pot another colour, the referee may award a foul against you if there is any doubt (you may have potted the wrong colour accidentally). Some referees state "Touching ball - please nominate" in this situation, although what the rules of the Referees' Association are on this point are unclear. I will try to find out. Hope this answer is helpful.
Question 60: Date: 07/01/01 13:20:41 GMT Standard Time From: email@example.com (Kerry Worthington) To: firstname.lastname@example.org What is the highest number of points a player can achieve in a frame of snooker if the opponent plays just one shot?
Answer: Hi! Sounds like a trick question, but I would have to say 162 (foul black - seven, free ball + black, + maximum break). I also answered this question in another way, in which, theoretically the number is almost infinite, where the ref constantly respots the red instead of the black, but that's silly! Now tell me I'm wrong!
Question 61: Date: 16/01/01 16:53:24 GMT Standard Time From:
email@example.com (Johni Keyworth) To: firstname.lastname@example.org
The last red was on the table, sitting near the bottom right hand pocket. The brown was also near the same pocket, sitting almost in the jaws/mouth with just enough room for the red to pass. My partner played the red (almost a straight-line shot) but it kissed the brown and both balls became wedged, symetrically, side-by-side in the mouth of the pocket. I have never seen this before and not knowing if there was a ruling that covered it, we decided that I should go ahead and play my turn. I tried hitting the red hard on the side away from the brown, hoping that it would eject the brown and the red would drop in. It didn't work! Both balls went in. We counted this as a four point foul and re-spotted the brown. Is there a ruling that covers this situation or was our logic correct?
Answer: Dear Johni, There is nothing too difficult about this situation. It is immaterial whether the balls were wedged or not - the important thing here is that the red and brown were potted in the same shot. Therefore, because red was the ball on, it is a foul shot, four away, and, as you say, the brown is respotted. This does not need to be covered by the rules, since the fact that the balls are wedged does not affect having to play the ball on fairly (i.e. not commit a foul). So, normal snooker rules apply. Hope this answers your question.
Question 62: Date: 16/01/01 17:05:01 GMT Standard Time From: email@example.com (Johni Keyworth) To: Snookermag@aol.com Hi, Graham, Wow! That was the quickest reply I have ever had to an e-mail! As a matter of interest have you ever seen balls wedged as I described? Johni
Answer: Hope this is the second quickest reply. I have seen the balls wedged occasionally, but it is very rare - usually one or the other will go. The old billiard players used to wedge the balls deliberately (though this must have been fantastically difficult to do) and some players made thousands of points making so-called 'cradle cannons'. They are reputed to have worn away the carpet on the corner of the table by walking round the corner so often for the next shot! Needless to say, this form of break-making was soon banned from the game!
Question 63: Date: 21/01/01 15:34:06 GMT Standard Time From: firstname.lastname@example.org (Graham Cutmore) To: email@example.com could you please tell me who made the first televised 147 break? I have tried on snookernet but was unable to find it thankyou
Answer: Hi, Graham! As far as I am aware, it was Steve Davis (I think in the Lada Classic, but can't remember the year). If you want more information, please e-mail Chris Turner: firstname.lastname@example.org He will probably be able to help (resident snooker guru)
Question 64: Date: 21/01/01 15:42:21 GMT Standard Time From: email@example.com (Shrijit Mukherjee) To: firstname.lastname@example.org (email@example.com) Hi! I have sent you my question before couple of times but did not get any response. I hope you answer my query this time. My name is Shrijit and I am from India. Though not a lot of snooker is played in this country still I am absolutely in love with this game. But now this game is certainly picking up in this country. I think you have an excellent site and it certainly has come to by rescue, so dont mind if I keep mailing you queries regularly. Anyway, I have been playing snooker for the last two years and I have a highest break of 72. But even after practising for hours I still dont have the exact idea on how to aim the ball. The other day I was watching snooker on the telly and I heard the commentator on how Stephen Hendry aims. He said that he first looks at the cue ball and then the object ball in line with the pocket and then just before striking he sees the object ball. Is it true? If not then please enlighten me on whats the actual procedure for aiming? Thanks a lot.
Answer: Sorry, Shrijit! I meant to reply, then it slipped my mind through being busy. I think I have answered this question already on my Questions Pages, so please have a look. I will send you a more detailed reply soon.
Question 65: Date: 29/01/01 22:18:54 GMT Standard Time From: firstname.lastname@example.org (robert.winton) Reply-to: email@example.com (robert.winton) To: firstname.lastname@example.org Hi, Can you tell me the advantage of using diamond tips? Regards R.Winton
Answer: Hi, Robert, Thanks for visiting Cornwall Snooker Scene and asking your question. The main advantages of using diamond tips is that they never wear out, but they're a bit hard on the balls, if you'll forgive the expression! No, I'm joking, I presume you mean Blue Diamond tips, which, with Elkmaster, are the two most commonly used tips in Britain. The reason probably is that they are more responsive and softer than leather, and are very consistent in their reaction to many shots, especially stun and screw. Most of the players I know use one or other of these, but it can be very difficult to find one which is 'parallel' top and bottom, i.e. it sits flat on the cue-end or ferrule and is still level at the top. Blue Diamonds tend to be larger and more dark blue than Elkmasters, but I marginally prefer the latter. Hope this goes some way towards answering your question.
Question 66: Date: 24/01/01 12:23:55 GMT Standard Time From: ValeriyGa@rambler.ru (Valeriy Gavrilov) To: email@example.com Hello snookermag, Can you, please, send me not a rules of snooker but a standards. I am interesting about table sizes (height, weight and e.t.c.), cue sizes, balls, type of a broadcloth and other detrails (I would like to know classical standards, probably it's english one). I'm sorry for my english If I made any mistakes! Thank you! Best regards!
Answer: Hi, Valeriy, Sorry to be so long in replying. The length of a full-size table is 12 ft including cushions, width 6 feet. Cues vary in length, but must be a minimum of 3 feet long - they are usually about 4ft 10in long. The usual cloth is called Strachan West of England, used in major tournaments. I am not sure of table weights, but I am told about two tonnes, as the slates (four) are very heavy. Measurements are in feet and inches - one foot = 30 cm approx. 12 inches = one foot (quaint old English measures). You can probably find out more information at: http:www.rileyleisure.com I hope this is useful, and glad to hear from you over there in Russia. Shows how snooker interest is growing!
Question 67: Date: 05/02/01 02:50:28 GMT Standard Time From:
golfg60@FreeNet.co.uk (Andy) To: firstname.lastname@example.org
Hi Graham, I can't for the life of me understand why you may not have got my questions from a week or so ago, but here goes again....... My question's are: 1) On the final black scores are tied, the player whom pots the Black followed by the white, does this, A) Result in That Player loses the frame or B) The Black is respotted. If there is a C) I would be grateful for your wisdom. 2) As Above, a similar situation, but this time the scores are, lets say for example, 60-58 in my favour, I pot the Black followed by the White, do I lose the game or is the Black respotted and this makes the score 60-65?? I would be grateful for your help Graham, thanks. Anand
Answer: Hi, Anand, I must apologise for not replying sooner, but I've been very busy with my new craze, Ebay, and didn't get around to it. In answer to your questions, the basic answer is the same in each case: If potting or fouling the black results in tied scores, then the black is respotted, and players toss for break. In any other situation where the difference is less than seven points, then the player who pots the black wins, or the player who fouls the black loses. So, in Qu 1 the answer is A. In Question 2 fouling the black results in that player losing the frame, despite the fact that there is less than seven points difference. Hope this is clear, and will try to be quicker next time!
Question 68: Date: 05/02/01 07:32:52 GMT Standard Time From:
email@example.com (Eberle) To: firstname.lastname@example.org
Hi Graham, I'm new to your site and find the question and answer section very enlightening. My friend and I have begun to play regularly at the only table in town, however no rules are posted so we rely on the knowledge(?) of others. There are a couple of situations that seem to arise each time that need clarification. (1) when "on" the red, a player pots more than one, does he get a point for each or just one point total? (2) after potting a red, the player pots the "on" color, say pink in this case, but also pots a red in the process. The player does not receive points for the pink but rather loses 4 points due to a foul. Is this the correct scoring? Some say the player gets 6 for the pink and loses 4 for the foul for a net gain of 2. (3) a player is "on" red, he pots a red but also a color. Shouldn't the foul be a minimum of 4 with no credit for potting the red? I look forward to hearing from you. Mike Eberle Washington State USA
Answer: Hi, Mike! Glad to have some US visitors to the site and
thanks for your questions. Answers: 1. A player gets one point for each
red potted, but can only play one colour irrespective of the number of
2. If, in potting a colour after a red, you also pot another colour or a red, then no points are scored for the colour e.g. the pink, and six points are awarded to the opponent. The number of points for the foul depends on the value of the highest colour involved, so, if potting the green a red is also potted, this is four away (minimum foul is four points). If potting the blue, the black is also potted, this is seven away (value of the highest ball involved).
3. If in potting a red a colour is also potted, then no points are awarded for the red, and the foul is a minimum of four (yellow, green or brown potted),or five for the blue, six for the pink or seven for the black. Hope this answers your questions.
Question 69: Date: 12/02/01 06:02:44 GMT Standard Time From:
email@example.com (Shrijit Mukherjee) To: firstname.lastname@example.org
Hi! Graham, its me Shrijit again. I had sent you a question before but my confusion still hasnt gone regarding aiming. But this time I have a few other questions for you.
1) When putting up the red balls for a new frame, is the pink ball potable on both the top pocket towards the black? We had this argument the other day, and I believe it isnt, but still I would like to get it confirmed by you.
2) If I have to play a red ball but I touch the blue ball first, it pots, and after it the black also pots. Is this a foul of five points for the blue or the foul of the highest value i.e., the black?
3) My last question is that if after potting a red the cue ball is touching any colored ball say pink then can I play any other color like black or do I just have to call pink or any other color touching the cue ball and play it away from it like you play in a touching ball? Thank you.
Answer: Hi, Shrijit, Sorry to be so long in replying. I don't
seem to have much time these days with my other commitments. In answer to
1) The pack should be set up so that the apex red is as close as poossible to the pink spot without touching the pink. Therefore, the pink should not be pottable into either corner pocket at the breakoff. I have seen some people leave an inch or two inches gap, which is of course incorrect.
2) If two or more balls not on are potted in the same stroke, it is the highest value colour potted which counts for the foul, irrespective of the order in which they are potted. So, if blue and black are potted, it is seven away.
3) When the cueball is touching a colour after potting a red, you may play away from that colour as if you had played it as your colour. You may also play any other colour instead. Note: the rules on this are not very clear as regards nominating the colour, but it is always advisable to nominate in this situation, in case you pot the colour or another colour. If, for instance, the pink was over a pocket, you pot it, but you were touching the black, how would the referee know which colour you were playing, and whether you had potted the pink by accident? Hope these answers help.
Question 70: Date: 14/02/01 13:54:27 GMT Standard Time From:
sholden@lehman.COM (Holden, Stuart) To: email@example.com
Whilst playing last night my opponent was left in the very difficult position of being snookered on the yellow which was on the side cushion almost touching the blue which was also on the side cushion. The white was on the same side cushion about half a table length further down. He tried the escape but missed, I then played a free ball off the brown (as I couldn't hit both sides of the yellow) and put him in an almost identical position as before. This time however, he deliberately just went straight down the cushion for the blue accepting the foul but avoiding getting in the same tricky snooker as before. As no referee was available we were not playing the miss rule, however I objected to the deliberate foul and stated that a deliberate foul should mean the loss of a frame. I would be interested to hear your opinion on this matter, what would have been the outcome of such a shot before the introduction of the miss rule? Many Thanks, Stuart Holden.
Answer: Hi, Stuart, Thanks for your question. Yes, this is a tricky one, but I would say that under professional rules this would involve the loss of the frame for a deliberate foul or unsporting conduct. Since there was no referee and it was a friendly game, you would probably not treat it quite so seriously, but if it were me, I would probably walk out! It's up to you how you view it, but in a match game, I would consider awarding the frame a reasonable move. This is only my opinion, as in 40 years of match snooker, I've never seen it happen, but I know there is provision for it in the rules.
Question 71: Date: 09/04/01 19:23:25 GMT Daylight Time From:
firstname.lastname@example.org (T. Tanaka) To: email@example.com
Hi Graham, This is Tommy, how are you?
1. I have some confusion in snooker and want your help, it is about the term "Rhythm". I would like to know is this term means the pace of playing or does it regarded to something about cue feathering before stiking the ball?
2. Beside this term, I actually have some problem with my cue feathering. I think in every single shot, I have different "speed" and "number of time" of feathering. Although I think it not always in two extremes, I felt that this might be a reason affecting my consistancy, am I right? I found it rather difficult to have a standard feathering cause it distracts me a bit from concentrating the object ball, just wonder what do you do when you address the cue ball, and any suggestion in this aspect for me?
3. Also, I would like to know why sometime professional or even club player move the middle finger when they are addressing, striking or even after the stroke?
Answer: Hi, Tommy! Thanks for your questions. The following are
personal opinions, as everyone has their own style, but certain aspects
are important for all players:
1. Rhythm means the tempo at which you deliver the cue, and probably also your general pace around the table and addressing the ball, so it's tied up with question 2. If you can play each shot at the same pace and deliver the cue in the same way each time, you will go a long way to getting a well grooved action. The cue should act like a piston, and only the upper arm should move on the shot.
2. Feathering is a personal preference, and if you watch professionals, some do lots of feathering, and some hardly move the cue. I am no great player, but I find that the fewer movements you make, the more compact is your shot. If you can cut out a lot of feathering, and just move the cue once or twice, I think that will improve your game. Also experiment with a pause at the back of the swing, and concentrate on hitting the object ball in the right place. It is a good idea to imagine that you are actually hitting the object ball with the cue, rather than the cueball. Try it! Central striking of the white is also important, but only look at the white when first addressing the ball.
3. The twitching of the middle finger, is, I suspect, just a nervous mannerism which some players have got into, and does not have anything to do with playing a good shot, as far as I am aware. Obviously I cannot make you a good player from a distance, but try out some of these tips I have mentioned.
Hope this helps.
Return to Home Page